Red Bay is the last village that can be reached by paved road. From this point on the highways in the whole Labrador are gravel roads. The first 85 km (53 miles) of the road was in very bad condition. After two hours of driving, I reached Mary's Harbour with a plan to take a boat to Battle Harbour, the island that in the past was the economic center Labrador.
I decided to take a break from driving for a day. Balios stayed at the marina and I boarded the boat. After an hour on the water, I disembarked on the island in the Labrador Sea. It was an old and well-preserved fishing village with a real fishery atmosphere. Everything there was authentic, from the house where I slept, to intact salt fish mercantile premises, to local meals that were served. At night, I lighted an oil lamp, and kept myself warm by adding wood to the stove. It was raining almost all the time, but it did not matter much to me. I felt like I moved in time to the era of the nineteenth century cod fishing. Staying in Battle Harbour was definitely my best experience in the whole Labrador.