World of the Maya

From the ruins to church procession

October 14

Morning in Uxmal::Uxmal, Yucatán, Mexico::
Morning in Uxmal
View of Labna::Labná, Yucatán, Mexico::
View of Labna
El Arco::Labná, Yucatán, Mexico::
El Arco

We spent another night in Uxmal. In the morning, we went to Labna. This archeological site is relatively small and compact. Estimated is that only about 2,000 inhabitants occupied the area. We came here to see another Maya gate. The arch was not an entrance to the city, like the one in Kabah, but rather is a passageway between upper class residential area and the main plaza with administrative buildings. The structure is 6 m/ 20 ft high and is an example of the Puuc architectural style.

El Mirador::Labná, Yucatán, Mexico::
El Mirador
Palace Gateway::Labná, Yucatán, Mexico::
Palace Gateway
El Palacio::Labná, Yucatán, Mexico::
El Palacio
Long Nose::Labná, Yucatán, Mexico::
Long Nose
Puuc Style Decorations::Labná, Yucatán, Mexico::
Puuc Style Decorations

The Palace in Labna constructed between AD 750 – 1000 has about 70 rooms and 7 patios. God Chaac masks dominate in the façade decorations. Certain areas of the Palace had different uses like administrative activities, or preparation of food. One wing contained living quarters for member of the upper class. Where did common people live? Usually they lived around the city in traditional oval houses made with wood and mud clay. We noticed a reconstruction of such a house in Labna. It was an inspiration for us to trace Maya houses still in use in the in the villages we cross in this part of Yucatan.

Traditional Oval House::Labná, Yucatán, Mexico::
Traditional Oval House
Wood and Clay::Labná, Yucatán, Mexico::
Wood and Clay
House Pillar::Labná, Yucatán, Mexico::
House Pillar
Common Spiny-tailed Iiguana::Labná, Yucatán, Mexico::
Common Spiny-tailed Iiguana

From Labna we went to the nearby Loltun Cave. For centuries, Maya used this cave as a shelter, leaving many traces of their presence behind. The underground trail is 2 km long. We saw rock carvings and so-called "black hands" painted using a negative technique. The cave also contains "Maya trenches,” built during the Caste War of Yucatan in the second half of the 19th century, when Maya used this grotto as a hideout.

Cave Entrance::Loltun Cave, Yucatán, Mexico::
Cave Entrance
Grand Canyon Room::Loltun Cave, Yucatán, Mexico::
Grand Canyon Room
Loltun's Head::Loltun Cave, Yucatán, Mexico::
Loltun's Head

What is the negative technique in the process of leaving an image of your own hand? We learned that it is quite easy. All you have to do is fill the mouth with ashes from the fire, put your hand on the rock, and spit out the ash on your hand and its surroundings. Centuries later, archaeologists will be busy analyzing the hand image. If they can extract DNA from saliva left on the rock, they can learn a lot about you.

Black Hand::Loltun Cave, Yucatán, Mexico::
Black Hand
Maya Rock Carving::Loltun Cave, Yucatán, Mexico::
Maya Rock Carving
Dry Cenote::Loltun Cave, Yucatán, Mexico::
Dry Cenote

The haciendas of Yucatán were the basis of an economic system introduced by Spaniards in 16th century. Similar to the American southern plantations they were built by the wealthy to produce goods that could be sold with a tremendous profit. Each hacienda was a rural, autonomous social unit. There was usually the main building of the owner or manager, a chapel and a shop for workers, sometimes a school. Cane sugar was sometimes produced, but production of rope for shipping industry dominated. Such production based on Sisal, the species of Agave cultivated for fiber. The haciendas maintained huge fields of Sisal that required hundreds of workers. To maximize profits haciendas enforced race-based caste system. Maya were at the lower level of the ladder. They were not slaves officially, but the system was similar to the feudal system. European-descended population, called Yucatecos held the economic control, Maya were workers paid only the bare minimum. Our trip to world of the Maya would be incomplete without visiting a few haciendas in Yucatán.

Road to Tabi::Hacienda Tabi, Yucatán, Mexico::
Road to Tabi
The Main Building::Hacienda Tabi, Yucatán, Mexico::
The Main Building
Grand Staircase #1::Hacienda Tabi, Yucatán, Mexico::
Grand Staircase #1
Grand Staircase #2::Hacienda Tabi, Yucatán, Mexico::
Grand Staircase #2
Stables::Hacienda Tabi, Yucatán, Mexico::
Stables
Row of Columns::Hacienda Tabi, Yucatán, Mexico::
Row of Columns

This is why we went to Hacienda Tabi. We had no idea that this place was not open to the public. We followed a road between abandoned citrus plantations until we reach a gate. It was open and we drove inside. To our eyes appeared the huge main house or Casa Principal in front of which we parked. In a short time, a man appeared who demanded us to leave. He looked like a person looking after this uninhabited hacienda. With a help of two baseball hats I was able to assure him that we are peaceful visitors. He let us stay for a few hours; we had time to explore the abandoned hacienda.

Long Veranda::Hacienda Tabi, Yucatán, Mexico::
Long Veranda
Broken Door::Hacienda Tabi, Yucatán, Mexico::
Broken Door
Church Entrance::Hacienda Tabi, Yucatán, Mexico::
Church Entrance
Roofless Church::Hacienda Tabi, Yucatán, Mexico::
Roofless Church
Lunchtime::Hacienda Tabi, Yucatán, Mexico::
Lunchtime

On the way back to Uxmal, we stopped in a small town of Ticul. It was time to fill our water tanks and buy groceries. While in town, we witnessed a solemn march of residents. Women in white dresses decorated with flowers dominated this church procession. Many people carried gifts in their hands, bread or food trays.

Church Procession::Ticul, Yucatán, Mexico::
Church Procession
Small Rickshaw::Ticul, Yucatán, Mexico::
Small Rickshaw
Gifts::Ticul, Yucatán, Mexico::
Gifts
Women in White::Ticul, Yucatán, Mexico::
Women in White
Filling Water Tanks::Ticul, Yucatán, Mexico::
Filling Water Tanks

© 2019 Maciej Swulinski