We were charmed by Antigua Guatemala. It was hard to leave. In the late afternoon, however, we set off on our way to Lake Atitlan. The last stretch of the road to the lake is extremely steep. We descended 1000 m/ 3280 ft in just 30 minutes. Continuous driving in first gear was not enough to slow our Jeep down. I had to press the brake pedal all the time. As usual in this situation, the main concern was not to overheat the brakes. Overheated brakes mean no brakes. We did not want to try this option on that steep road.

As usual, we arrived late. It was 9 pm at Pasajcap Campground when we finally located it. The next morning we had lazy time by the lake. The views are amazing there. Lake Atitlán surrounded is by high mountains on all sides, an active volcano cone visible on the horizon. The time has come to leave. We wanted to go back by a different route to avoid the arduous climb up the road we had arrived the day before. Before leaving, the owner of the campsite, Peter originally from France living permanently Guatemala, advised us that if we want to take this road, we must ask for a police escort.

We were convinced that the latter road would be faster to the Mexican border. Only a short 1.5 km stretch of the road is gravel, steep and slow. We knew from many stories that this was a part of the road, where armed robberies take place. We were instructed to report to the San Juan Police Station. When we showed up there they told us they would give us a motorcycle escort. On the road behind San Pedro, a man was supposed to wait for us. After an hour, he did not show up. We drove to another police station in nearby San Pedro. There, in turn, they told us to go ahead; a police officer should be waiting for us somewhere on the road. At the city border, a foot police officer whom we met by chance advised against further travel in this direction. The problematic section of the road was nearby, and there was no sign of the escort. Well, we had to turn back. We lost over two hours. Probably the local police were afraid to come with us.

Leaving Lake Atitlán, we had to overcome a huge difference in altitude. From the lake level, 1.562 m/5125 ft above sea level, we climbed to almost 3000 m/ 9800 ft only to go down again to 160 m/ 525 ft. At about 10 pm we were at the border with Mexico. Crossing the border in Central America is not as easy as in Europe or between Canada and the US. You have to fill out a few forms, make a few photocopies. However, all of this is done in a nice manner usually with a smile on a clerk’s face. After an hour we were on our way again, but it was time to stop somewhere to spend the night. I knew that Hotel Lacantum allows to stay in their parking lot overnight. We went there without hesitation. We were in beds on the upper floor of our Jeep exactly at midnight.